The Existential Expatriate

Lutyen's Delhi

2010-07-28T07:42:00.000-07:00

The Presidential Palace

Walking in Historic Footsteps
Last week, thanks to a wonderful friend, I had the privilege of touring the Rashtrapati Bhavan or Presidential Palace. It was designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and is the largest presidential residence in the world. It was originally called the Viceroy's Palace and Lord Louis Mountbatten was the last Viceroy to live in it.
I am off to England and a course at Oxford, followed by a week in London. I will have lots to share when I return from the land of the original Raj. See you in 2 weeks!

Mango Madness

2010-07-14T15:03:00.000-07:00

A Cart Laden with Mangoes
A Truck, Delhi Style

Gimme Shelter

2010-07-08T11:28:00.000-07:00

Arushi Girl's Shelter Entrance Plaque

Today Naomi and I visited the Arushi Shelter to make the donation from the sale of our "Keep Calm and Carry On" t-shirts. These were designed for The Fading Ladies by Annechovie. Her design has been a big success for us. We have sold so many shirts and they just keep selling. You can visit our website: fadingladies.blogspot.com I thought that it was wonderful to see that The Gap and Espirit had contributed to the building that houses the girls.

TTwo Lovely Arushi Residents
These are two of the young ladies living at Arushi. The girl on the left was abandoned in Delhi and took to work at the Railway Station disguised as a boy. She had to do this to survive on the street. As a young child she would carry heavy suitcases and packages on her head through the station. Eventually maturity caught up with her, and it was apparent that she was not a boy. This is when she came to Arushi. The other young lady was taken out of a destructive family situation. They are both doing well.
Some of the Younger Residents
These sweet little girls were just full of smiles and giggles. As soon as I took the photo, they wanted to see it on the camera. This was taken in the room where they sleep. Most of these girls have never slept in a bed, used a bathroom, had their own clothing or gone to school. They survived on the streets of Delhi. It takes 6-12 months for the Arushi shelter staff to prepare most of the girls to go school. As they were abandoned, they need to learn basic hygiene, how to sit for periods of time, follow instructions, etc. This is quite a task but the staff is passionate about helping these girls succeed.

Naomi and the Girls

The View from the Top

This was taken from the top floor. You can see the girls studying with the in-house teachers. Once they have completed this 6-12 month preparation, they will go onto formal school. Arushi provides them with a safe, loving environment, life skills, an education and the ability to move onto a life of their own. When they leave they are educated and skilled. The Salaam Balaak Trust makes all of this possible. It was thrilling to be a small part of this process and to have had Annechovie help us. The problems in India are overwhelming, but Arushi is working to change that and to make life better for girls!

Happy Fourth of July from Delhi

2010-07-04T05:52:00.000-07:00

"May Freedom Ring!"

2010-07-03T05:54:00.000-07:00

As Seen from the Street

As I mentioned yesterday, the dye shop was surrounded by a neighborhood. This is the scene directly alongside the shop. Notice the little child playing outside the house(tent) and the ladies public toilet at the left.
More from the Street
Here you can see a sweet little girl on the motorbike. She was talking and singing and just enjoying herself. Nearby are two charpoys, one with a man sitting, and the other empty. Eventually an old woman arrived to take her place on the other one.

Talking Trash
This guy was chatting on his cell between the two dumpsters! A few minutes after I snapped this shot, two other fellows arrived and the three of them conducted a meeting of sorts and then left.

Sew What!!!

I love this shot. The tailor is working away on the second floor in an extremely small space. There was only room for him, the machine and the fan.

Looking Smart

Don't you love the name? Only in Incredible India!!!

Fringe Benefits to Dye For

2010-07-02T07:12:00.000-07:00

The Friendly Dye Shop

Wednesday was one of the best days I have ever spent in Delhi and it included this "to dye for" experience! One of my friends here is quite adept at getting everything just perfect and I learned some of her secrets on this outing. The three of us had fabric, trim and fringe that needed to match exactly for sewing/design projects. In India that means you buy what you need--silk, cotton, trim, fringe, etc. in white and then take it to the dye shop. These shops or sometimes street stalls are located in most markets. This one was directly behind the one we were in and was easy to get to.

Color Selection
The first step is to get out your "telephone" book or color chart. You can buy those at notion shops. The expert dyer then discusses what you are aiming for. Quite often the color is between two that are on the chart, but he understands, and begins to mix the dye. This is done in a pan that is on a gas burner.
Test Run
He will then test a small bit of your fabric or trim to see if the color is right. Since everything dries to a lighter shade, he heats the back of a spoon over the flame and then places it directly onto your fabric to dry a small area. If all is correct, the pot is filled with the final dye and in everything goes.

The Final Mix

The Finished Product
Once the items are dyed they are hung on the line to drip a bit and then placed in a plastic bag for take away. The talent of the dyer is amazing. He has no fancy degree or years of study. He is educated by observing and doing. He instinctively understands fabrics, trims, buttons, etc. and how they will take the dye. Delhi is bursting at the seams with people like this who make a living, raise their kids and are part of their communities by working out these street stalls. I am always overwhelmed by the extraordinary talent I find in the most ordinary places. FYI--behind the fringe is a family home. Tomorrow I will post the photos I took from the dye stall of the "neighborhood." I hope that you are dying to see them!!!!

The Farmer in the Del(hi) Highway

2010-06-29T03:35:00.000-07:00

Yes, It is a Tractor
And Here's the Wagon

Wagon's End

You see the MOST fascinating vehicles on the highways here in India. These photos are of a tractor laden with sacks plodding along as the cars and trucks whizzed by. What I especially like about it is the painted design on the wagon. It is so colorful and decorative, even though it is only a farm wagon. They still take time here to do those things and that is why I always say,"Incredible India."

It's a Material World

2010-06-28T03:34:00.000-07:00

The First Step in Design

This is how it usually begins. We pull out pieces that we already own and then start tweaking them. Usually we change the collar, sleeves, or combine various pieces into a new design. Then we have to go out to look at fabric. That is actually so much fun that it takes most of the day. It is really quite hot now(110 and up) so we are exhausted by the time that we are done. Numerous stops are required as the shops are all over Delhi. The main problem that we seem to have is staying on track. The fabrics here are so numerous and so beautiful that you start designing new outfits in the shop and then you loose focus. We just tell each other, "FOCUS!"

The Finished Products
Above you see a few of the items that Mr. Singh completed. Everything is done in silk. His workmanship is superb and my photo does not do justice to the clothes. The coat fabric I found on a trip to Jaipur and contains silk embroidery. It is quite beautiful!

A Sampler of Fabrics

The Full Sample

Today we headed out to check for stretch cottons and some fabric to be used for upholstering bedroom walls. I am doing this blue and my friend is doing the pink. Fortunately, they have meters and meters available and it costs a song! As I mentioned, it is easy to become distracted and sure enough I did! I found a sumptious piece of black silk covered with bright colors to make into a dress. I will post that and another piece for a spring coat tomorrow.

Sew What!

2010-06-15T01:21:00.000-07:00

Before

After

Here is the first photo of one of the many items that my dressmaker, Mr. Singh made for me. He does beautiful work and everything seems to fit perfectly. If it doesn't, he fixes it. This photo was taken just before a HUGE dust storm that blew sand and dirt into the tiniest of spaces and literally felt like sandpaper on your exposed skin. Mr. Expat could not play tennis and everyone at the Club seemed to end up in the gym to escaped the harrowing wind. After 2 hours of torment, the temperature was down into the 90's and the sky was blue! Once again......Incredible India!

Building Blocks

2010-06-14T07:24:00.000-07:00

The Brick Carrier

What Am I Doing Here?

In the Foundation Hole

Construction in Delhi is unlike anything you can imagine. This is the site next door to our flat where a new set on flats is being constructed. The original building was dismantled, by hand with sledgehammers, after everything of value was removed. Recycling at work!

The ground was then bare and the construction began. Basically NO equipment, other than a bulldozer once, has ever been used. All of the work is done with handheld tools by the small army of workers. They are definitely getting the job done. However, there are NO safety standards for them. They do not have hardhats, goggles, boots or gloves. They are wearing street clothes and flip flops. Incredible............India!

Streetside

2010-06-11T08:33:00.000-07:00

A Delhi Street Child at Work

Sadly this is one of the many street children I encountered in Delhi today. I was returning from Mother Teresa's and decided to take a photo. This is part of the "other" India and it is very prevalent in the city. These children are at the major intersections begging or selling flowers amidst the speeding cars, busses, trucks and taxis. They don't go to school and they do not have homes. Many NGO's are attempting to improve their situation and there are also wonderful locals who have started schools and worked diligently to get them off the streets. The India that you read about in the Western papers as growing and moving ahead represents about 30% of the total population. The remaining 70% is like this little girl.

Kantha Shawls

2010-06-09T07:25:00.000-07:00

"Booty" Fabric

A Kantha Shawl

Another Kantha Shawl

A Kantha Shawl with Border

These are the Kantha shawls that I purchased and had trimmed in the "booty" fabric. As you can see they are two-sided with a contrasting border. They originated in Bengal and are a great example of recycling, long before it was popular. Housewives would take old silk saris and cut them up. Then they would layer the various pieces of silk, stitch them together with a running stitch, hence the different patterns and borders. These pieces would be made into blankets, shawls, throws, etc. My shawls are from antique saris and the stitching is in contrasting colors. Aren't they unique and beautiful? One of my readers, Wendy, was here recently and she purchased three of these masterpieces. They are addictive in that each one is a work of art and adds to your collection. Just another dimension of Incredible India!

Material Girl

2010-06-04T04:44:00.000-07:00

An Outside View of the Shop

An Inside View of the Shop

My Salesperson and His "Booty"

Fortunately, I went fabric shopping before I was taken ill. One Saturday, several weeks ago, a friend and I set off to purchase silk and other fabric. One of these other fabrics is called "booty" in Hindi and we were using it to trim shawls we had purchased. These shawls are gorgeous and are called "Kantha." Tomorrow's post will be about them, so plan to learn and be inspired.

Anyway, this is the fabric shop in Lajpat Nagar where we went. It was a dreadfully hot, sunny day and it was packed. Our booty was in the front, so Mr. Salesperson had his helper pull it out of the pile, measure and cut it. He then writes it all up and you go inside to pay. Delhi is full of all different types of fabric stores and this is one of those patronized by locals and expats, so it is very typical.

2010-06-01T20:58:00.000-07:00

Dear readers I apologize for my lack of posts. I have been sick and not able to get out and about as usual. This morning I am off to try for a workout and swim. Look for posts coming later today! Thanks for all of your support of the "Keep Calm" shirts.

Keep Calm and Carry On

2010-05-18T20:54:00.000-07:00

The Newest Shirt Logo
The Four Colors

Here is the design for the latest shirt from The Fading Ladies. We feel most fortunate to have had Anne Harrell of Annechovie donate her artwork to us for this fantastic shirt. Don't you love the woman riding the elephant--she is calm and she is carrying on! Thank you so very much Anne for your generosity. You are helping to make life better for girls in India!
Our shirt proceeds will be donated to the Arushi Girls Shelter in Gurgaon. It houses over 47 girls and is run by the Salaam Balaak Trust. Please visit our website and the following sites for more information:
fadingladies.blogspot.com
salaambalaaktrust.com
annechovie.com

Custom Shopping!

2010-05-13T21:54:00.000-07:00

A Delhi Street Sign

Is this not a great advertisement? I was out in one of the local markets shopping for silk and my friend spotted this. She has a great eye and never misses ANYTHING!! This sign gave us a real laugh. You have to wonder where the goods came from and why they were seized. Never a dull moment in Incredible India!

Dhaka Streetscapes

2010-05-10T07:58:00.000-07:00

Honey, where is our rickshaw?
Not a Woman in Sight!

Need Anything Moved?

Rickshaw Rally

Here are some typical street scenes from Dhaka, Bangladesh. I even saw horse-drawn carriages conveying people. The traffic is bumper-to-bumper with everything pictured here plus carriages, tongas and motorbikes. The last photo was taken from inside the car as the guide said it was not safe to roll down the window or I might lose my camera!

Bangles in Bangladesh

2010-05-05T07:23:00.000-07:00

The Bangle Seller of Bangladesh

This is the bangle shop that my car had a flat tire in front of during my tour of Dhaka. The street has about 8 feet wide and hard to cross because of the rickshaws and carts. We were the only car in sight. This is the old part of the city and is filled with shops of this size. Everything you are looking at here is a bangle, NOTHING else. I had a fun time bargaining and finally settled on some blue bangles to use as napkin rings. More on Dhaka tomorrow.

Cable News

2010-05-03T08:15:00.000-07:00

Cable Jam

Let's Wrap it Up!

Line Dancing

Cable Shopping Until You Drop!

This week has been too full and I am just now able to start posting about my Bangladesh trip. They are famous for the cables that connect internet, tv and telephone. Can you even believe this? Bustling, bumbling, beguiling Bangladesh. More to come.....

Picture Imperfect

2010-04-27T08:03:00.000-07:00

Here I am in Dhaka, Bangladesh. Unfortunately, I forgot the cord that connects the camera to the computer, so I cannot post any of the many photos I have taken. This is a fascinating city and I spent five hours touring it with a guide today. What many might consider a disaster was an opportunity to me. We had a flat tire in the oldest part of the city, which is almost devoid of women and was wall-to-wall with bicycle rickshaws and men. With the heat and humidity I could not stay in the car. My wonderful guide, Nadim, escorted me as I walked into shops and even made a purchase of lovely bangles--isn't that neat, bangles in Bangladesh--and checked out the narrow lanes. What an interesting walk. It has been my experience that a smile and interest in what you are seeing allows people to assist you and even become protective. More on Thursday when I return to Delhi.

Constructive Criticism

2010-04-21T07:02:00.000-07:00

The Front Yard

Demolition Derby

The house next to our flat is coming down and a new four story building is going up. It will take 2 years or more to accomplish this task. Already it is quite a site to see. First of all, the building itself was stripped of anything with value. Then the demolition team moved in and I mean moved in. These men live, eat, bathe, etc at the job site. We awake every morning to the smell of breakfast and smoke fills the air and our flat most evenings.
There are no safety goggles, helmets or regulations for the workers. The house is being dismantled with sledge hammers and the debris carried out in baskets. I really feel for the workers as they need their jobs, but it is so dangerous. This is the other India I think about. The one lived in by the majority of people. It is the India where people are a commodity and are treated as such. For India to become truly incredible, this will have to change.

A Leg Up & Footing the Bill

2010-04-18T08:35:00.000-07:00

Samples from Jaipur Foot

A group of 7 expat and diplomatic wives were chatting one morning at the club. We were talking about different slogans that reflect life in Delhi. One of us said that our ideas would be great on t-shirts and VOILA, "The Fading Ladies" was established. Our goal is strictly to raise money for charity. We each made an initial investment and everything we make after expenses goes to our chosen charity. Our first charity was Jaipur Foot. They make new legs and feet for people that cost about US $35.00 each. You can see them above.
Shirts to Wear

Our first shirt is on the right and says in Hindi, "I am not a tourist, I live here!" It always gets a positive response and very often a smile or laugh. The red shirt says, "I'm with sir." Sir gets all of the respect here and you really must have your husband sign to do almost anything as an expat in Delhi if you are here due to his job. The household employees also call your husband sir and of course, we are madam.

Our next shirt is absolutely FANTASTIC!!!! Anne Harwell of Annechovie, designed it gratis and we are also going to sell tote bags with her design. The 7 of us at Fading Ladies are completely thrilled and honored that Anne was more that generous. Isn't the blog world great?

Please check out our website at: www.fadingladies.blogspot.com

WE CAN SHIP TO THE U.S.

Wedding Bells!

2010-04-14T05:37:00.000-07:00

Entrance to the Wedding

Last night I attended the wedding of my trainer Anil. He is a wonderful, professional who gets many of us expats into shape. As Mr. Expat was in Hyderabad, I went to the event with a friend who is also a client of Anil's. Anil and his wife are from different castes, but had the permission of the members of both families to marry. This was a "love" marriage, not an arranged marriage.
The Expectant Bridegroom with His Loot

The groom is given garlands of rupees that are placed over his head and worn proudly. They are actually beautifully decorated and folded

Wedding Guests in Their Colorful Saris

The Bride, Groom and Bride's Mother

The Bride was sooooo petite and beautiful. It took her 3-4 hours to get ready. The dress weighs a tremendous amount and is completely covered in embroidery. It is truly a work of art. This was not a society wedding, but the preparations are still tedious. This wedding sari comes from an area in Old Delhi called Canari Bazaar. You just have to see it to understand, so I will do a separate post. It is a virtual treasure trove!

The Beautiful Bride

Seen on the Streets of Delhi

2010-04-11T07:59:00.000-07:00

A Cart of Cucs

Cows Out and About

Last week Valerie and I were out and about. Here are just two of the many photo opportunities I saw. It is now around 106 F in Delhi, so it is tougher to be outside!

Phool's Paradise

2010-04-07T04:25:00.000-07:00

A Jasmine Headdress

The word for flower in Hindi is "phool" and Saturday we visited the flower market at the Qutub Minar. Delhi has two wholesale flower markets and this one is located behind one of the oldest historical sites and on the edge of the Mehrauli Archaelogical park.

Decisions, Decisions!

As you can see you go from stand to stand to look at the different flowers and also to compare the quality. Bargaining is also important and for this I brought along Baju and Miraj. I had to buy all of the flowers for the Easter services at The Delhi International Church. I planned to do one massive arrangement and 5 smaller ones. Rose petals and jasmine would be strewn on the tables with the food and the pathway. The variety was unreal--PARADISE!!

Petal Pushers

Baju is on the left here holding the kilo and a half of rose petals. Can you believe that you buy them by the kilo!

Everythings Coming Up Roses!

Happy Easter!

2010-04-05T06:44:00.000-07:00

Church Flowers

This is the arrangement I did for The Delhi International Christian Church on Easter Sunday. We had a lovely breakfast followed by the worship service. Just wait until you see where the flowers originated. Incredible India once again!

Get a Grip!

2010-04-04T07:35:00.000-07:00

Handles and Knobs Galore

Here is just a small sample of the hundreds of knobs scattered around the shop. The blue and green handles could easily be towel bars. Any color scheme can be had here in India and this is only one of thousands of shops that stock these knobs.

Speaking of knobs, it occurred to me that many of you might wonder where the word nob as in Nob Hill comes from. Well, in India a Nawab was a ruler and during the days of the East India Company it was corrupted into Nabob. This came to describe those Brits who made their fortunes in India and the East. One of those men was Elihu Yale, and yes, he made a nice fortune working for the East India company. Fortunately for America he gave a donation to a small Connecticut college that decided to change its name to his! Incredible India all those years ago was even touching the shores of the New World.

Treasure Trove

2010-04-02T06:55:00.000-07:00

A Brass Pot Full of Mercury Glass

Thursday Cindy and I headed out to lunch and shop at Sunder Nagar. We had a delicious repast at the always popular Baci where we visited nonstop. She is off to the US for 2 weeks so we had lots to discuss. Even with all our chatter I was remiss in giving her my book request, The Big Short, by Michael Lewis. After our meal we hit the shops and this was the first. Can you even believe all of the "stuff" they have?

Lamps, Mirrors, Clocks, etc.

Obviously the shop is choc-a-block with all kinds of old and new treasures. They have lovely handblown glass balls in almost every color, especially nice in pink, green and blue. The brass pieces come in all shapes and sizes and it was interesting to have one of the meditation bowls demonstrated. You fill it with water, run this special tool around the rim and the water does a most delightful dance. Cindy thought you could use it to aerate wine! She is such a clever one. Tomorrow I will post a photo of the knobs--another find.

Sole Food

2010-03-24T04:12:00.000-07:00

Pretty in Pink
The Ladies Shoe Department

Buying shoes in Delhi is quite different. Of course there are some Department stores, but they are too expensive for the majority of the population, so open markets are your best option. The displays are VERY colorful and appealing and the help is quite eager to make the sale. I especially love all the pink options. Lilly should have a shop next door!

Sew What!

2010-03-22T03:31:00.000-07:00

Mr. Singh and Son

Here is my dressmaker, Mr. Singh (with the walker) and his son. Unfortunately, Mr. Singh was run over in December and is just now getting back to full-time work. He comes directly to the house and can make anything, from a ballgown to a pair of shorts. I do not know what I would do without him! Hopsy loves his creations as well and wears many of them back in the U.S. Below you can see the fabrics and items to be copied laid out in the guest room. I will post the photos of the completed designs in a month. I cannot wait to get my pleated skirts in orange and black, pants, silk and linen dresses and Hopsy's tunics back. India is incredible when it comes to bringing out your creativity.

On the Street Where We Live

2010-03-20T06:38:00.000-07:00

The Sweepers and the Fruit Seller

This is what we saw as we left our house to go to the Embassy Club. All of these ladies who sweep our Jor Bagh streets were sitting with our local fruit vendor having a chat. Don't you love all of the colorful saris? Don't miss the portable scale on the ground to the right of the vendor.
Carting a "TON" of Bricks!

Just down the block from the ladies we came across this man. He is carting these bricks across the road to a building site. The most amazing part was watching him transfer his entire load to another fellows head. It certainly gives a whole new meaning to "headache."

Out and About

2010-03-17T06:20:00.000-07:00

My All-time Favorite, India Gate
The Presidential Palace

The Central Secretariat

Looking up Rajpath to the Presidential Palace

Monkey Business

Here are some shots of my favorite spots in Delhi. It was a glorious day to be out and I just had to take all of you on my drive! I also did some jewelry shopping and Cindy found the cutest necklace to go with her Vietnamese silks. Never a dull moment here in India.

I "Herd" That It's Complicated

2010-03-16T07:30:00.000-07:00

Face to Face

On Sunday we went to see the movie, "It's Complicated." As it just arrived in Delhi and we love all of the actors, plus Annechovie's work was featured, we could not miss it. So after church and lunch at the Club we headed out to the mall. Mr. Expat and I laughed out loud with the rest of the audience and even felt a bit homesick. There is NO shop like the one Meryl Streep owned in all of India. We were dying for some of that food and of course the cleanliness. Oh the things we expats yearn for! However, all of that was forgotten as we drove home and were right smack dab in our world again. Don't you just love it. Out on the highway for a Sunday stroll. Now you have "herd" it before---Incredible India!!!!

The Rest of the Clan

Night Under the Stars!

2010-03-15T07:23:00.000-07:00

The Welcome Committee
Mr. and Mrs. Expat

The Tables Under the Stars

A Star under the Stars!

Saturday was the BIG fundraiser for the American Embassy School. Our good friends were all going so we joined Diane and Bertrand's table. You can see the very handsome Bertrand above. Mr. Expat and I posed with an elephant and had a marvelous time. The school grounds are the site of "Night Under the Stars" and it is truly a lovely event. The student body at AES is made up of American and foreign passport holders, so it is an international school that follows the US curriculum. The majority of teachers are Americans and live on campus. It is a wonderful school and we were glad to be included in this great event.

Book Club Friday

2010-03-14T06:01:00.000-07:00

The Beautiful Dining Room
The Beautiful Hostess

Friday was the monthly meeting of our Wise, Witty and Wonderful Book Club. This time we met at the absolutely lovely home of Diane. She is Franco-Russian and moved to Delhi from Hong Kong. As you can see her taste is superb as is her cooking. It is always a treat to dine at her home. Our book club has 12 members and we come from the U.S., France, Cyprus, Pakistan, England, Argentina and India. Between us we have lived in Russia, Nigeria, China, Turkey, Germany, Panama, Honduras, Switzerland, Hungary, Japan, Denmark and others I forgot! You can just begin to imagine how lively and interesting our discussions can be. The food is always FANTASTIC!!!

The Road Outside Diane's House

Road Construction Workers Delhi Style

This is what greeted us as we left the sanctuary of Diane's home. Now you understand when I say the Delhi is a city of contrasts! Incredible India. See you tomorrow when I have lots of fun photos to post.

Here They Are!!!

2010-03-11T04:36:00.000-08:00

The First Floor

Can you believe this? It is like Aladdin's Cave! Valerie was told about this shop by a VERY savvy shopper who is a source for lots of GREAT shops. I was so overwhelmed and then the ideas start flowing and you go into sensory overload. Of course the best part of all of this is the fact that everything is a fraction of what you would pay in the US or Europe.

First Basement

I kid you not, there was another floor of just white trims and eyelets below this one. The tassels, curtain tiebacks, cord, etc. was overflowing. You can order any color and they custom dye it to match in about 30 minutes! So I ma now busy designing pillows, curtains, table skirts, etc. so that I can use some of my creative energy. Valerie and I will be very BUSY!!! One final note, we also visited a too die for silk shop and saw a rat the size of a chubby cat!! India!

Coming Soon to this Site!

2010-03-11T02:46:00.000-08:00

Stay tuned, because later today I will be posting photos of a trim shop that I visited yesterday. I left my camera in the car and Mirage just left to go and pick up Mr. Expat, so I do not have anyway to post the pictures. You see, having a driver sounds wonderful, and it is, but it also complicates your life in some ways. It is difficult to be dependent on others! This is especially true when I know that all of you are going to LOVE that shop. It was unreal and packed to the gills with thousands of trims!! INCREDIBLE INDIA!!!

Sidewalks and Traffic Circles

2010-03-09T06:47:00.000-08:00

Constructing a Delhi Sidewalk

Yes, this is really how it is done. Women in India have such difficult lives and very often I see babies and toddlers at the work site. It gives a whole different perspective to the Western concept of "bring your child to work." These women have NO choice and as they are hauling baskets of sand, dirt or bricks, their children sit next to the road. This is the other India that is always on my mind.

Driving Past a Delhi Traffic Circle

A Traffic Circle in Full Bloom

The traffic circles or roundabouts are at their peak right now. The flowers are all blooming and it is not hot, so everything is beautiful. Sir Edwin Lutyens, the designer of Delhi, planned these circles and they are really quite efficient for the most part. Traffic here at the stoplights is unreal during rush hour as you have to wait for up to 5 minutes. It is something of a relief to reach the city limits and encounter the circles.

Street Life

2010-03-08T04:10:00.000-08:00

A Delhi School Van

Ever since I spotted this "van" I have wanted to do a post on it. This is one of the many ways that children get to school in Delhi. The top is usually piled high with backpacks and about 6-8 children are inside being wheeled home by the driver. You can see that his job keeps him thin and imagine doing it in 100+ heat!

A Delhi Truck

As this truck was parked right next to our car, I thought that you would enjoy seeing how colorful trucks are here. Most of them are painted in some way and have various things written on them, which I will post another day. I do not think the safety standards are very strict here, if they exist at all!

Seeing is Believing!

2010-03-05T06:30:00.000-08:00

How's That For Fresh?

Ribbons a GO-GO

Street Traffic

Tennis Anyone?

2010-03-04T06:25:00.000-08:00

The Tennis Club Courts

Every Tuesday and Thursday from 8:30-11:30 a group of Expat women show up to play tennis. This was my first time and I came at the urging of Nathalie and Diane who are both French. The various women are from France, India, the US, Japan and Korea. I played one set and then decided I needed at lesson after a 25 year tennis hiatus. It is amazing how it does come back. I need to drill and practice and Duleep Kumar who coached me was most helpful. I will be sure to keep you informed of my progress!

My Tennis Buddies!

The Band Played On

2010-03-03T06:16:00.000-08:00

The Bandmaster and the Band

Bagpipers Coming In

Today was another wonderful day in delightful Delhi. My WIC club had the monthly general meeting at the beautiful home of one of our British members. We were able to sit under an awning in her lovely garden and listen to the Band of the Corps of Royal Electrical and Mechanical Engineers. They played for 30 minutes and even had Scottish dancers with the bagpipers. Three of our members were brave enough to go up front and learn the dance. It was really such fun! The hostess had set up a proper English tea in the dining room. We all partook of that, chatted and visited with the Bandmaster.
As I was sitting and listening to the wonderful music I could not help but think how fortunate I am to be in Delhi experiencing events such as this. The weather has changed, but it is still perfect for an afternoon of music and tea in the garden with friends from around the world!

Garden Variety

2010-02-26T04:03:00.000-08:00

Approaching the Mughal Garden

Yesterday I toured the Mughal Garden with a group I am in called WIC or Women's International Club. My good friend Kelly nominated me and I am enjoying meeting women from India and around the world. We have a monthly General Meeting where we always are exposed to something new and then various small get-togethers throughout the month. It has been interesting to visit the different Embassies, learn about new foods and meet local artists and authors. Being the Anglophile that I am, having Christmas tea at the home of the British High Commissioner was beyond superb. Lady Stagg, the High Commissioners' wife, is a study in grace and generosity. Their residence is everything that you would expect it to be and is perfectly appointed. She has installed two of the most magnificent panels of embroidered silk. They are simply breathtaking for the size and workmanship. Tea that afternoon is a memory that I will forever treasure!

So, our WIC group visited the Mughal Gardens that are a part of the Presidential Palace or Rashtrapati Bhavan. This was originally built as the Viceroys residence and is today the largest Presidential residence in the world. The capitol of India was moved from Calcutta to Delhi in 1911. This was officially announced at the Delhi Durbar when George V was crowned King Emperor. Sir Edwin Lutyens was appointed the chief architect of "New Delhi" and he designed these gardens. Unfortunately I was not allowed to bring my camera, but go to this website and you can see the garden: http://presidentofindia.nic.in/mughalgarden.html

SPECTACULAR!!!!!!

Schoolchildren at the Entrance

One thing that I love about Delhi is that the schoolchildren are really taught to appreciate their history. There must have been hundreds lined up to go into the Mughal Garden and they were all so friendly with our group. Notice the uniforms, they must be mandatory here. I like that!

Out to Lunch

2010-02-25T03:14:00.000-08:00

Blooming Pink and Green

Today was a beautiful day in every aspect. It began with a tour of the Mughal Gardens, which I will write about tomorrow, followed by a delightful lunch and ended with my book club dinner.

As in most countries, you always bring the hostess a gift. The flowers in Delhi are spectacular this time of year and I was also able to find jasmine. It is so fragrant and is also lovely in a bowl where you use just the blossoms. My good friend Prem tells me that you cannot put jasmine next to the womans' side of the bed or it will wilt. Apparently it does fine with men!

Hopsy brought this fun green/pink sweater from Lilly and I had my dressmaker do the pleated skirt. I love this style skirt and they are difficult to find in the U.S., so I am going to have several made in various bright colors. A black linen would also be handy. My new pink bag completed the ensemble. I love this color combo as it just lifts you up and everyone around you. It is like being a cloud of happiness!

Celebrating the Neighborhood

2010-02-23T07:14:00.000-08:00

Festival Goers

Isn't this a happy group? These are just a few of the hundreds of people that attended the Shia celebration across the road from our flat. I asked them if I could take their picture and as you can see, they were delighted. Naturally the children are smiling, but what really touches my heart are the smiles on the faces of the women. They look like mothers everywhere who are glad to be out with their family on a gorgeous day.

Serious Little Boys

After these sweet little guys followed me around for awhile, I finally asked if they would like their picture taken. "Oh yes, madam!" Mirage told me that they were probably fascinated by my hair color--brown with blond highlights. The two of them were so polite and observant of my walk through the festival. Aren't kids great?

Village in the Nursery

Check out this VERY rustic bench. This looks like what must remain of a onetime village. It is now between the cemetery and nursery. You will notice that the sidewalk is in great shape, but apparently the roofs leak!

Laundry Day

Suddenly my "little tykes" washer and dryer look pretty good. At least it is a warm, sunny day.

A Delhi Thatched Cottage

How charming is this place? It reminded me of England and it is located just after the village and across the sidewalk. A bit ramshackle and rundown, but it still oozes character! This is what is so utterly amazing about Delhi. You have such a contrast of people, architecture and lifestyle within a few hundred yards. To think that I live across the road from such a wonderfully intriguing area fills me with wonder and amazement. God is good!

Gates of Celebration

2010-02-22T04:37:00.000-08:00

Steps to Celebration

These are the steps leading into the cemetery across from our flat. You can see Mirage leading me in. He did not want me to go alone to photograph the Karbala celebration. This place is normally deserted, but today it is alive with people, food, song and celebration. It is my understanding that this is a Shia event. Tomorrow I will post more photos. Have a lovely Monday--I did!!

25 Years of Joy

2010-02-20T04:39:00.000-08:00

"Our Baby"

It does not seem possible that Hopsy is today 25. How the years have flown by and the memories added up. She was delivered into this world on the 20th of February 1985 just in time for tea! I started her out to love all things English immediately. She was a WONDERFUL baby who slept through the night, seldom fussed and just loved everyone. Mr. Expat and I took her for many walks in her Silver Cross pram, read to her often and just reveled in her presence.

Hopsy was a strong-willed child and my copy of that book by Dr. Dobson was dog-eared. Yet she had such spunk and personality that we never felt exhausted. She was always a "people" person and did well with all children and adults. Even when she was mischievous, it was hard not to smile and many a time we had to hide our laughter and appear stern. We did not want to encourage her antics too much.

Hopsy is named for her great grand aunt Helen and she is definitely a chip off the old block. Aunt Helen loved her family and her friends and was quite a character. She eloped with her beau of many years the day that she retired from teaching at age 65. To visit her was a privilege. The table was always beautifully laid and the house perfect. She had impeccable taste and was a hostess par excellence. You felt like you were the most important person in the world when you were with her and she was generous to a fault. As she had no children of her own, she treasured her many nieces and nephews, especially her namesake.

Mr. Expat and I have spent the entire day in Delhi talking about Hopsy and what a blessing she has been to us. She has lived all over, learned other languages, enjoyed other cultures and always made an effort to be her best. She is the VERY BEST thing that ever happened to us and we thank the good Lord everyday for her.

GOD BLESS YOU HONEY AND HAPPY 25TH!!!

You have been a joy to us since the day you were born!

Housewares

2010-02-18T22:49:00.000-08:00

A Vintage Poster

This poster was spotted by our wonderful driver Mirage the day I purchased the peacock chair. The Amar Colony furniture/flea market is jammed with items of every size,shape and color. I had walked right by this piece several times, but not Mirage. He spotted it the first time that he saw it. I think he also saw all of the white walls in our flat and knew that this would liven one of them up! It depicts a religious procession in Bhopal, India. Once I have it restored and framed, I will take another photo. It does look right at home in Mr. Expat's study which is a work in progress.

The Ubiquitous Indian Elephant

Elephants abound in India. In Delhi they used to be quite a visible presence on the streets, but not anymore. As I love them, I am in heaven here. This one Hopsy purchased, but did not have space in her bag after Christmas, so she left it. It is now on a stack of books in her father's study, so he is claiming ownership! Actually, they are sold in the same market where I bought our pots in various sizes. We have one that is about 2 feet tall on the balcony and many of our friends have even larger ones.

Our Chowkidar

This is an absolutely wonderful carving of a watchman from the Mughal period. The shop, Country Collection, does many of these reproductions and they are unlike anything we expats have seen. He stands watch over our entryway, guarding the Baker chest and Herend that I brought from home. Isn't he a conversation piece? As you can see, Delhi is a shoppers

paradise.

Purse Prize

2010-02-17T19:20:00.000-08:00

Recently Purchased Purses

I picked up these two delightful handbags from Mr. Bhattu on Monday. Aren't they great in such bright colors? Cindy, Valerie and I designed them on our last visit to his shop. It is wonderful to have such friends! I think that they will go well with all of my Lilly. I am blessed to live in such a vibrant country, bright colors are everywhere. It just cheers you up to go outside in Delhi and see the colors of India--pink, orange, turquoise,red,gold,etc. The Ash Wednesday services at Sacred Heart Cathedral were awash in color. As solemn as the day was, I could not help but be uplifted and joyful. Color my world!!

Seen on the Street

2010-02-16T06:31:00.000-08:00

A Wedding Horse

As today is the day of 30,000 weddings in Delhi, it was no surprise to come across this handsome fellow. This is a very "auspicious" day to be married in India and all Hindu weddings feature a white horse. The groom rides in on it. Notice those great tassels, wouldn't they be wonderful as curtain tiebacks?

Outside of a Hindu Temple

Safdarjung's Tomb

This is on the main road outside of my neighborhood. It is considered the finest tomb of its period (1753) and has a beautiful garden. Isn't it amazing that sights like this abound in Delhi and are just part of the landscape? Notice the traffic which was especially bad today with all of those weddings.

India Gate

This is one of my favorite Delhi landmarks. It is at one end of what is now Rajpath or kings way. It was built by the British to memorialize all of the Indians who fought and died during the First World War. Designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens, it was completed in 1921. Rajpath is certainly one of the most beautiful city drives in the world. I told Hopsy that if she had lived here as a young child, we would have taken this drive once a week at night. Rajpath is illuminated then. That way, when she was an old lady, she would think back to her days in Delhi and those drives down Rajpath with her dear Mother!

Room with a View

2010-02-15T06:36:00.000-08:00

Drawing Room Balcony Garden

As I sit in our drawing room (that is what you call your living room in Delhi) with the french doors wide open, I look out to this bit of greenery. The weather is just glorious now and it is lovely to sit and read while listening to the birds outside. As we are on the first floor (second floor to Americans) we have only balconies. Our employee Baju does all of the pots and cares for everything. We just enjoy it. If you want to visit India, February is definitely the month to do it!!

Before and After

2010-02-12T23:53:00.000-08:00

"Before"

Remember this peacock chair? I discovered it at the Amar Colony funiture market in this condition. I knew that it had potential as it was somewhat old and the carving was good. Mr. Expat and I picked it up today and what a difference a coat of paint, along with repair work and sanding make.

"After"

So here is the finished product. I set it out in the hall beneath a painting from Panama. Now I need to find some fabric for a cushion. That will not be hard to do in Delhi. I forgot to bring my camera with me to the market, but will next time. That place is chocked full of treasures if you can see beyond the dirt and dust! Sort of like India!!

On another note, PLEASE scroll back and read my post for Sunday, Feb. 7th. Hopsy had to help me, so it is a bit late in posting. I am so excited though as I won my FIRST AWARD. Thank you Town and Country Mom!! Caroline at Monogrammed Prep overwhelmed me with another Sunshine Award so I am simply over the moon, or should I say sun? Thank you Caroline!

The Other Delhi

2010-02-10T06:09:00.000-08:00

Woman at Work

Construction in Delhi

Children of the Workers

Today I toured one of the most famous Hindu temples in India. These are the people I encountered outside as I was leaving in my chauffeured SUV. This is the "other" India, the one that is always on my mind. It is the India where women build roads and sidewalks alongside the men. The India where the children do not go to school,have a proper shelter, enough to eat or medical care. The "other" India is everywhere. The "other" India is only a discussion to many and a focus to the Western NGO's. It is this "other" India that I want to know because I see it everywhere each day. What can I do, what can you do?

Three Wheeling

2010-02-09T06:36:00.000-08:00

This is one of Delhi's most popular modes of transport. The auto rickshaw, tuck-tuck or three wheeler can weave in and out of traffic like a motor cycle, costs less that a taxi and is almost everywhere. Mr. Expat loves them so much that I had a watercolor done of one just for him!

I went to a fun luncheon today at the home of a fellow blogger, Ellen. I will have Hopsy help me link it to mine. It is called, "A Reason to Write." She must have had 30 women from around the world, lots of good food and NO WATER!! Being cool, calm and collected, Ellen was not distressed or panicked. All of us are used to such incidents, so we the guests were not bothered either. But that is India.....incredible!

Sunshine Award!

2010-02-07T18:24:00.000-08:00

Town and Country Mom gave me my first award!

I am passing the Sunshine award on to some of the very first blogs I ever read as well as some of my very first readers and commenters:

Henley on the Horn

Mezze Moments
Mona

Peachy Keen
Belgian Pearls

Wren

Monograms and Manicures (my daughter!)

The rules, once this award is received, are as follows:

1. Post the logo on blog.

2. Pass the award on to 12 fellow bloggers.

3. Link the nominees

4. Let nominees know they have won this award by commenting on their blog.

5. Share the love and link to the person you received this award from.

What the Dog Saw!

2010-02-07T05:22:00.000-08:00

Augusta Ready to Walk

Delhi in February is absolutely gorgeous. The flowers are blooming, the smoke is gone and it is around 75 degrees. If you want to visit India, this is definitely the month to do it. Walking is pure heaven these days and what follows is some of what Augusta saw as she had her afternoon constitutional.

The Bara Gumbad in Lodhi Garden

A Sign in Lodhi Garden

Families Frolicking in Lodhi

A Dog on a Scooter

Isn't this dog snug like a "bug in a rug?" This is how he gets to Lodhi Garden for a walk with his owner. A day in the park here just fills me with wonder and leaves me joyful. The views as I walk, especially of the Lodhi tombs like the Bara Gumbad, are priceless everyday to me. Even the signage is fun, i.e. pluck vs pick. And to top it off there is always something unexpected every single time. Today is was the Lab on the scooter. Delhi, you gotta love it!

Tales of the Toilet

2010-02-05T04:28:00.000-08:00

A Typical Expat Toilet

Today I am excited to share some of the bathroom stories I have encountered in Delhi. As you can see in the picture the toilets are covered with labels explaining their efficiency. These labels DO NOT COME OFF! The same can be said of the A/C labels. I wonder what adhesive they are using.

Anyway, I was having coffee with an Australian friend, Clare and she shared the most hilarious toilet tale. The other day she heard a hissing sound coming from her commode. Upon inspection she was surprised to find a HOT geyser of water shooting straight up from the toilet bowl. Shortly thereafter the toilet split in two pieces. Immediately she called in a plumber who said that she needed a new toilet--really? Being the smart woman that she is, Clare wanted to know why hot water from the water heater was in her toilet, so they would not have this problem again. The plumber said the solution was a new water heater! Of course Clare did not accept this response, but had to hurry out to an appointment, so told them to find the source of the trouble by the time she returned. When she did get home, not only was there a new toilet in place, but also a new water heater. They never did figure out the problem, but they told her, "Madam do not worry, it is solved!" Unfortunately the new efficient water heater only provides 4 minutes of hot water, so things are a bit rushed in the morning.

A Typical Expat Water Heater

As the water heater sits directly over the toilet, one hopes that it is securely bolted into the wall. I know of several cases where it has fallen or even exploded! One does not linger....

Today at Book Club, my delightful French ami, Diane shared her toilet tale. She has daughters and lots of visitors, which makes for a busy household. It is a good thing that she is super organized in every way. One of her toilets was stopped up and she called in the plumber. He took care of the problem, but presented her with an ENORMOUS bill. Naturally she protested and finally called her landlady to intercede. What she learned was this: the plumber was only there to work with the pipe, not clear it. That is a job for a sweeper or untouchable. However, for her he made an exception and she must pay him for this GREAT service.

Oh India!!! You just have to laugh and enjoy the journey or you are crying and frustrated. It is such an interesting, fascinating and quixotic place. It is like no other.

Fair Trade

2010-02-04T02:46:00.000-08:00

The Puppet Seller

Of course I could not resist this photo with all of the pink puppets and a splash of green. The colors of India never cease to amaze me. Each of these puppets is handmade by a woman somewhere in India. She is most likely dressed as colorfully as her handiwork. Notice the painting on the curb. No detail is spared to help promote sales, why he is even providing music!

Horsing Around at the Mela

A Fair Crowd

Here you can see the security that is always present at these melas and in Delhi in general. I feel that it is quite visible, but not necessarily effective. The Mumbai 26/11 attack is evidence of that. We were here on a weekday, so the crowd was light. Notice how the men are dressed in dark colors, that seems to be the norm, except for the chap in the turban. He certainly livens up the photo!

Fair Worship

This attendee(s) is paying homage to Ganesh. He is one of the Hindu gods and amongst other things is the "remover of obstacles." Look at the detailed carving and intricate design. Do you see the small elephants carved along the base? India is filled with this type of detail and it sharpens your eye. Also notice the great beard on the man carrying the "puppet-man." Try finding one like that anywhere else! I can't miss that happy family of three who are checking it all out. Dad is drab, but baby is decked out in a knitted sweater and pants, along with a matching hat as it is cool right now. And the Mom with the pretty salwar kameez(top and pant), pink(great color choice) sweater and always a lovely scarf. Indian women do look so feminine with the ubiquitous scarves. Every color is available in almost every type of fabric from chiffon to cashmere. Naturally we all came home from the mela with more scarves! You just cannot help it!

Ready to Shop

2010-02-02T05:28:00.000-08:00

With Our Driver

Today I headed out to the Surajkund Mela with Cindy and Valerie. This is one of the biggest and best mela's in Delhi and is not to be missed. Since I arrived here last April I have heard about it, so I was geared up to shop. It is about one hour outside of the city and involves lots of traffic, but I have Mirage. He is our driver and we could not survive without him. He got the three of us to the mela safely, packed up the car with all of our purchases, drove us to lunch and brought us home. He is WONDERFUL!!!!

Mela Entrance

Here is the formal entrance to the mela. A mela is basically a fair or bazaar featuring goods from across India. Many of the Embassies host them in early winter. This is the last one of the winter season. It will soon be too hot to do much of anything, so everyone loves Surajkund. Tomorrow I will post more photos taken inside the mela.

A special thanks to all of you who have left such lovely comments. One of you asked about safety in India. We are always careful and as a woman I do not go alone for the most part. A friend of mine was recently here visiting and she brought a companion upon my recommendation. This is not a country where a woman should travel alone.

It All Comes Out In the Wash!

2010-02-01T06:47:00.000-08:00

Vegetable Heaven

Since I am starting at the end of our walk today, here is Aru's gorgeous and abundant vegetable garden. You have no idea, unless you live in a flat in Delhi, how thrilled I was to be the recipient of homegrown produce. My bags were overflowing with lettuce, cabbage, celery, broccoli, cauliflower, dill and spinach. She even added some marigolds for the vase in my entry. The growing season ends in about a month, but we will be enjoying fresh veges until then! During the HOT months before the monsoon the produce that is available is tiny, stressed and quite limited in variety. For example, no lettuce, or what you find you wouldn't eat. I experienced this last summer so I am really enjoying what is available now. It is a good thing my mother always said, "eat your vegetables!" I am making up for lost time.

Political Washout

Since Delhi is India's capitol it is filled with politicians and government officials. All of these people live in houses provided by the government. Lucky for them that Sir Edwin Lutyens designed the city and those houses. Lucky for expats like me too as they are BEAUTIFUL and give the city lots of green space. Delhi is very green and when you are riding around in your chauffeured car you see all of these beautiful Lutyens bungalows.

We discovered the laundry area for one of the neighborhoods in our weekly walk. If you live here you just send your clothes to this spot. No "Little Tykes" appliances for the politicians! It was actually quite clean, efficient and busy. The clothes are placed in these large pools manned by men who wash them by beating them on the cement. Once that is done they place them in a tub to sit a bit and then they are finally placed in a machine with a hand crank that spins out the water. When that is done, they go to one of the many lines to be hung to dry. I was impressed that everything was bright white and without stains.

The Super Scrubber(love the headgear)

Parking Lot and Drying Area

In case you were wondering, everything was being ironed after it dried. Ironing in India is a whole other post. Just think 100 years ago, hot coals and an iron made of iron. More on that another day, it is fascinating. Isn't the way that life is lived here mesmerizing?

The Laundry God

Please Be Seated!

2010-01-31T04:28:00.000-08:00

Peacock Chair

Not far from Jor Bagh is the Amar Colony which is a furniture making, antique finding and junk lovers haven. It is situated in the midst of a commercial area and is a true find. I first came here with an Indian friend who was helping me get some chairs reupholstered. You have to see beyond the neighborhood as it is so filthy and chock-a-block, that you cannot imagine leaving your beautiful chairs at the so called "shop." This is especially true when your mother gave you the chairs and they were in perfect condition. Not to worry, they turned out beautifully and are now installed in our blue and white bedroom in Delhi. Years ago I bought over 100 yards of a blue/white Waverly fabric in Panama for $1.99 a yard just because it was such a steal and I love blue and white. Fast forward to 2009 and an approaching move to India. My wonderful decorator Jean had a headboard made and upholstered in the fabric that I sent out to Delhi. Since I had not seen our flat, I didn't do anything beyond the headboard and the bedskirt. So I arrived and managed to recover 3 chairs, have two balloon shades, made as well as 2 dog beds, and I still have fabric left!!

I discovered this "peacock chair" and think that it would look great painted a bright shade of blue. It needs some repair work and the shop will do that. Total cost for the chair, repair and paint......$50.00!!!! Makes the dirt and mess tolerable.

Local Furniture Factory

Yes, this is where they make the furniture. It is on the edge of a polluted pond that is filled with trash. Don't these pieces have nice lines? It is hard to believe that the artisans can create something of style in the midst of such a disgusting mess. That dear readers is the mystery and beauty of India. Truly incredible.

Shopping Day!

2010-01-30T03:38:00.000-08:00

Checkout at the Steakhouse

Here are the lovely gentlemen that work at my favorite grocery, The Steakhouse in Jor Bagh. You can see from the photo how small the shop is. I love the owner and was so excited to discover that his wife is from Wisconsin. She is usually in the shop on Saturday, so the two of us chat about the weather back home and how happy we are to be here.

Initially it was something of a shock to discover the difficulty of finding groceries in Delhi, but I now have it all worked out. This is not to say that I still do not get frustrated at times. However you have to cope to survive and I want to do more than survive! I want to live! All of our vegetables and fruits are selected by Anitha our cook, and delivered. We also have weekly delivery of organic salad greens, chicken and beef and bakery products. Isn't that easy? For everything else I use The Steakhouse and A-1 in Jor Bagh. Once a month I visit another store called La Marche. You cannot imagine how excited I was to discover liquid Tide there!

The Interior of the Steakhouse

The Exterior & the Bookstore

Right next to The Steakhouse is the Jor Bagh Bookstore. Mr. Singh is a treasure and will do his best to find you the book you must have. Delhi is filled with bookstores and I am even in two book clubs. Many of the Indian authors stop in to see Mr. Singh and autograph their works.

A-1 The Corner Shop

This is where we buy our milk, water and soda by the case. They deliver anything, from a bag of potato chips to a case of Nestle milk, right to your door. It is so convenient and now I cannot imagine living without this service!

The Flower Stall

Right across from A-1 and 2 blocks from our flat is the flower shop. I usually stop here a couple of times a week. It changes daily and now that the weather is cool they have a wonderful selection. I just hosted one of my book clubs for lunch and did two massive arrangements of lilies.

This week has found me out and about almost everyday, all day. I am going to have Hopsy help me post the photos from two magnificent events I attended. I think that you will enjoy viewing them as much as I did. Delhi is a fascinating place and each day is so very different. Whenever I get frustrated I remember how lucky I am to be experiencing life here!

The Road Less Travelled

2010-01-24T23:00:00.000-08:00

Entry Gate Across from My Flat

Today I went walking with my friend Aru, seen here in the photo, and a new friend named Holly. We met at Lodhi(Lodi) Garden which was shown last week. This garden was originally on the outskirts of New Delhi and was actually a village. The British, under the direction of the Viceroy's wife, Lady Willingdon, moved out the residents to create this park around the tombs. The tombs date from the Sayyid Dynasty and the Lodhi(Lodi) Dynasty. The Sayyids came to power in 1414 and ruled until the Lodhis took power in 1451. They were ousted in 1526 when the Mughal empire began its reign. You will all know the Mughals because of the Taj Mahal.

It is quite fascinating as an American to think about all of this history and walk through the garden. It is so ancient and here I am exercising among these ancient ruins!

Our Guide

Today we first walked through Lodhi Garden and then headed over to my neighborhood of Jor Bagh. It was originally an orchard for the Mughal Emperors and became a "colony" in the 1950's following the Independence of India. Across from our flat are these gates and a wall. Aru wandered in here one day and wanted to do some exploring which we did today. This man works at the nursery that is on the site we explored. Don't you love the outfit? Sure beats jeans and a shirt I think.

Peacocks on a Tomb

This site is actually an old Muslim cemetery and is filled with tombs. You can see the peacocks on one of the tombs. In fact the nursery itself has tombs as we discovered pots and plants on one of them!

Important Sufi Tomb

Apparently someone of importance is buried here. We took off our shoes and climbed down into the actual tomb where candles were burning around it. Who would ever have thought that this was right across the street from my flat? Only in Delhi! Aru has done extensive study and exploration so she is quite knowledgeable. She said that this entire area is filled with tombs from the Sayyid and Lodhi periods--probably thousands! The sheer abundance of ancient architecture all around me as part of the walk or drive leaves me feeling amazed and SO grateful for the opportunity to live here. God is good!

I Will Walk Tomorrow!

2010-01-21T07:16:00.000-08:00

Winston, the basket case!

So sorry to have failed to meet you on the walk!! Winston has been a basket case, I am having Book Club tomorrow and I had a dinner party tonight. Let's meet tomorrow to finish our walk and learn about Lodi Garden. See you!

All In An Afternoon Walk

2010-01-19T05:47:00.000-08:00

My trainer Anil

Bara Gumbad (Late 15th Century)

Sheesh Gumbad (Late15th-Early16th Century)

Garden Enclosure Mosque (18th Century)

Wall of Sikander Lodi's Tomb (Early 16th Century)

Can you believe that this is where I walk? One of the best things about living in Delhi is the architectural history. It is everywhere and fortunately we live near Lodi Garden where all of these tombs/mosques are located. I will write tomorrow's post on the garden and the history from the Lodi's to Lady Willingdon. Walk with me tomorrow--please!!!!

Out to Lunch and Dinner

2010-01-16T06:57:00.000-08:00

The lovely restaurant

Friday was such a busy day in Delhi. Mr. Expat had gone to Hyderabad earlier in the week, so I was foot loose and fancy free to socialize. A new friend, Sona, had invited me to a luncheon at her uncle's restaurant, Lazeez Affaire. Isn't the outside entrance inviting? Plants are always in pots here so that they can be moved about and with the weather changes you are constantly replanting the pots. I now have dahlias, vinca and lettuce growing in pots on my balconies. When the heat starts to come in Baju, our houseboy and mali, will replant them with these gorgeous heat tolerant shrubs.

As Sona had invited all of the people she first met in Delhi, I did not know who to expect beyond Kelly and Valerie. Low and behold, I knew almost everyone else and that is the amazing fact of Delhi. It is HUGE, 17 million, but you move in such small circles and they all overlap. It was an excellent lunch with women from over six countries who talked continuously!! I loved this brass samovar from Kashmir and one of the guests, Ellen--also a blogger--told me that she had ordered one. I think that it would look great in my kitchen in the U.S.!

The brass samovar

The day came to a lively end when we shared a Central American dinner of rice, beans, tortillas and grilled vegetables at the home of friends. We discovered over Christmas that we had all lived in that region and missed it. They kindly offered to share some of the 30lbs. of beans they had brought in their luggage. Isn't is amazing how food unites us?

Handbag Heaven

2010-01-14T05:19:00.000-08:00

Our handbag maker, Mr. Battu

Today Valerie, Cindy and I went to visit one of our favorite places, the handbag shop run by Mr. Battu. It is almost impossible to find and is truly in a back alley. The first time I went with Hopsy I got so lost that I had to phone a friend who tried to guide us there. In the end, Mr. Battu sent his father out to find us on the main street. Now I know where it is without a hitch, so I end up guiding everyone else the first time so that they can find it a second time!

Mr. Battu can do anything and he is just so very nice and patient with all of us. You can imagine what it is like to deal with women all day long regarding handbags!! We had each ordered two bags when he mentioned that a new shipment of leather was arriving in 10 days from Italy. It would include orange, bright pink, green, etc. Naturally we told him that we would pick up our bags and look at all the new colors. It is exhilarating to be able to design your own pieces down to the inside pockets! Everything is custom done to our specifications. Valerie, who went with us, is an interior designer. She was able to help Cindy and me with colors and stitching contrasts.

Once we were done with handbags, we headed off to another market to have a yogurt. It was another nice afternoon in Delhi.

The party last evening at the Maharaja's was spectacular. I was not able to take any photos so I am sorry about that. We were celebrating Lohri which is a harvest festival featuring a bonfire, food and dancing. It would compare to our Halloween. Many of my friends were there, so I spent the entire night chatting. This was certainly better for my figure than eating!!

Shopping at Sarojini

2010-01-13T03:50:00.000-08:00

The Cotton Candy Man

This afternoon Sonia took the rest of our Prayer Group shopping at Sarojini Market. This market is close to the Diplomatic area of Chanakyapuri so it is quite popular with locals and foreigners. It is most well known for the brands like Gap, H & M, Liz Claiborne, Izod, etc. that can be found if you really look. I found my sister a darling paisley Liz Claiborne shirt for 150 Rupees or about $3. Angela and Sonia found some cute Espirit pieces and darling baby clothes.

I loved the plastic shop. You really have to go to the specialized shops to find a good variety here. They do not allow foreign stores like Carrefour, Walmart, Target, etc. so shopping is quite time consuming in India. It is basically like it was 100 years ago in the West. I suppose that this will change eventually, but for know you go to the "butcher, the baker and the candlestick maker!"

Thank you for all of your comments. I am working on replying and love reading all of the other blogs. Tonight I am off to celebrate "Lohri" at the home of a Maharaja and Maharani. I will bring my camera and give the details tomorrow. It should be quite an evening!

Out & About

2010-01-12T03:52:00.000-08:00

Two Good Friends

Tuesday is Delhi Network at the Hyatt Hotel. This group is comprised of Expat women and a few men, who are living in Delhi. It is a social group and it is of great help when you first arrive. We gather in the Polo Bar of the Hyatt for morning coffee/tea each Tuesday to chat and find out what is happening. Here are two of my very good friends, Synnove who is Norwegian and Cindy who is American. We met at Delhi Network and then took a course together called Seven Cities. I will have to write about that one day as it was such fun!

Cindy's Driver Nemol

This post is a bit out of order as I cannot seem to move the photos around! Hopsy come back and help your mother!!! Anyway, as most of us do not drive in Delhi, we all have cars and drivers. The driving here is on the right, like the UK, but it is absolutely WILD!!! No one follows the rules, where there are two lanes you find four and the traffic is horrendous. Sunday is a quieter day, but even then you never know. I am so used to riding in the back and chatting or reading that I wonder how I will ever adjust to being behind the wheel. Also, kids do not ride in car seats here, unless they are Expats, so you see them up in front, jumping around or being held by the ayah(nanny). It reminds me of my childhood in the 60's!!! I have seen cars with 12 people inside and these are compact cars. I will try to get a photo of that for a future post.

Our Sweeper

This is the lady who "sweeps" our street and sidewalk everyday. As India still has the caste system, she is from the lowest caste, the Dalits. This type of job is reserved for people of her caste and she receives a salary, housing and schooling for her children. The work is very hard and I would say unpleasant. Delhi is absolutely filthy. People throw trash in the street, do NOT clean up after their pets, etc. so you can imagine what she sweeps everyday. Just think of it like this: you go to a fair and throw your plates, napkins, food, etc. in the street. That is Delhi. Even in Khan Market, an upscale shopping area, the merchants sweep the trash from their store out onto the sidewalk for the sweeper to get it. Never mind that customers may be hit on the process.

I could not take photos at the Chinese Embassy, but the tea was very nice and also educational. The Ambassadors' wife did a lovely presentation on Chinese embroidery and then we watched traditional dancing. The Chinese teas where delicious and the food was also nice. It is always interesting to visit the different Embassies and High Commissions.

"Little Tykes" Laundry Part II

2010-01-08T23:41:00.000-08:00

My LITTLE Washer!

Welcome to wash time! Everything has now soaked for at least one hour in the hottest water you can imagine. Safety is not an area of concern in India, so all water heaters--we have one for each bath and the kitchen--are set at one temperature, HOT!!! I hate to think about all of the accidents involving scalding that must occur. We do not use bleach, we just add a tablespoon of Tide during the soak. Anitha then wrings everything out and puts it into another bucket(blue of course) to be loaded into the washer.

Now the washer and dryer are out on the back balcony, also home to numerous pigeons. Each machine is about 24" wide and 32" tall. Flats here come with marble floors and baths, granite counter tops and beautiful wooden french doors, but not laundry rooms. We all make do on the back balconies or in a bath with a large shower. I do not put more than one set of towels in the machine at a time or one king size sheet with two shams. If you overload these little guys nothing gets clean at all and the odor is horrible. All the detergent is powder, so we dissolve ours first. It takes about 2 hours for one load!!!

During the months before the monsoon arrives Delhi is often without water in many areas. Fortunately we live where the buildings have wells and city water, so we have only been without water once. If you are out you call for delivery and they fill up your tanks with REALLY DIRTY water. Can you imagine how difficult life is here for the poor and working classes?

On Monday I will write about brooms and sweeping. I had trouble loading some of the photos today and I need to speak to Hopsy! One of you asked why we have lived all over--Mr. Expat is in agribusiness and people love to eat and grow crops everywhere-- so that takes us everywhere!! You never know what life will bring, do you? Have a blessed Sunday. I am off to tea with the Chinese Ambassador's wife!!

"Little Tykes" Laundry Part I

2010-01-08T02:38:00.000-08:00

Soaking Buckets

Doing laundry in Delhi is very labor intensive and complicated. Many people have someone called a "dhobi" who comes in daily to just soak, wash, dry and iron the clothes. Anitha does all of our laundry since we have a washer and dryer, so it does not all need to be done by hand. Thus, we do not have a dhobi.

As Mr. Expat arrived eight months ahead of me, six of which were spent in a hotel, I had my work cut out for me. First of all, Delhi water is tremendously DIRTY. Of course you cannot drink it, but it is so dirty that it prevents your clothes from getting clean. Nothing seems to stay white, it becomes gray, and eventually you just give up the fight. I could not do that. I had a container filled with NEW white with a blue monogram Matouk sheets and towels, as well as new Porthault blue/white sheets. Anitha and I set out to keep all of this white.

I must admit that she doubted me at first and said that NO ONE she had worked for had ever been able to keep anything white. She is now a true believer!! I thought back to my years in San Pedro Sula, Honduras and remembered that Chela always soaked EVERYTHING before putting it in the washer. Why not try that here in Delhi? So, we sent Baju(the Houseboy) off with the driver to find 2 BIG buckets for soaking, preferably in blue to match the house decor. He was successful and thus began the war on white, which we are winning. EVERYTHING is first sorted by color and then put in the soaking buckets. Now, you cannot mix towels, sheets, clothes, etc. Everything is separated and then soaked. We have to do small amounts and tomorrow you will learn why when I reveal the photos of my "Little Tykes" washer and dryer. I also plan to show you an Indian broom. You are sure to be swept away!!!!

Cooking with my Easy Bake oven!!

2010-01-06T22:15:00.000-08:00

My very own Easy Bake!!!

At my age most women are excited about their Wolf, Viking, La Cornue or Aga. Not so when you are an Expat living in India. Such cookers do not even exist here as far as I know. In fact, the majority of flats and houses do not even have ovens. Fortunately, my wonderful friend Cindy introduced me to the Indian Sunflame oven. Her cook, Sheila, turns out amazing dishes with this little miracle oven. It is SO small that it installs right on your counter top and fits any 7.5 x 11 inch pan. As we speak, I am roasting cashews from Kerala. You see I cannot really complain or be depressed about my little Easy Bake because I get to cook things like cashews. These were brought to us by friends who spent New Year's in Kerala, a region in southern India. I could not be doing this if I were in the U.S. since you can't get raw, fresh cashews from the local cashew plantation. India is full of opportunities like this and you just have to see the bright side. Tomorrow I will introduce you to my "Little Tykes" washer and dryer!! Washing clothes takes on a whole new dimension here. Stay tuned to soak up all of the dirty details!!!

Down In Delhi

2010-01-06T05:09:00.000-08:00

Early Morning Fog/Pollution

This has been a sad day for all of us in Delhi. By all of us, I mean Mr. Expat, myself, Winston, Augusta, Anitha and Baju. The dogs have pouted all day and the rest of us have sorely felt the loss of Hopsy. We dropped her at Indira Ghandi International Airport last night and it has been lonely since then. It is a good thing that she is returning in March!

As you can see from the photo, taken from our drawing room balcony, winter brings heavy fog and pollution. It is often impossible for planes to land and us to breathe! The pollution is caused by a variety of weather factors, not understood by this Political Science/Classics major, and the small fires lit all over this city of 17 million to keep people warm. More on that in another post when I can include photos.

I just have to thank all of you who have been so tremendously kind to me with your comments. They are VERY uplifting and encouraging. Just what I needed as Hopsy was leaving!!! God is good! I promise to answer your questions in the days ahead. As for her nickname, I LOVE Beatrix Potter. I even decorated the nursery in a Beatrix Potter wallpaper with Laura Ashley fabric. Mr. Expat and I read each of the "Tales" to baby Helen, in fact our set of books was purchased in London by my sister Kris. We are both Anglophiles!!!! Hopsy comes from dear Beatrix. I do not know how we would survive without her! Hopsy that is!

A Busy Day in Delhi

2010-01-05T04:09:00.000-08:00

This has been quite a busy day. Helen is departing for the U.S. in the evening, so we had several last minute errands to run. Our first stop was The Oberoi Hotel Patisserie to select pastries for an afternoon tea. The staff is so helpful and nice that it is hard not to over indulge! Well, we did as we ended up with two chocolate frosted doughnuts for the road! These are DEFINITELY THE BEST doughnuts in Delhi and I love to give them as gifts as they come in their own special boxes! Only in India and only at The Oberoi would that happen!

Helen awaits her doughnut

A Fruit Seller at Janpath Market

Our second stop was Janpath Market. Helen, Anitha (our WONDERFUL cook) and I went to finish Helens' last minute shopping. It was quite successful and even Anitha was impressed by the bargaining that Helen did. She bought bangles, mirrors, pens, pashminas and leggings to take back to the U.S. Anitha also ended up with four pashminas as Helen got such a GREAT price and I found one. Unfortunately, mine was not at the great price, but it is perfect on the end of my bed where it enhances the Porthault linens. I will post a photo later.My Church Prayer Group

Our last event was afternoon tea at our flat where Helen met my prayer group. We pray for couples who are trying to get pregnant, are pregnant and those with children. I initially wondered why I felt called to this group, but God definitely sent me there. Eventually I realized that I was there because Mr. Expat and I were away from family and friends during this time in our life. Now I am able to be like family to these friends and dote on them and their adorable babies. You really miss that when you are far from home! So here are Angela and Katie, Helen, me, Sonia and Jenna. Our other member Sarah is taking the photo. We are from four different countries-America, New Zealand, Australia and South Africa-and love being together. Next week Sonia is taking us on a shopping excursion to Sarojini Market.

Time to head out to our Club for dinner before Helen leaves at 12:55 a.m. We will MISS her.

I make my debut!

2010-01-04T05:02:00.000-08:00

Namaste, Bienvenue, Wilkommen, Welcome!!

This is the VERY first post to my blog and I hope that you will enjoy following my "expat" life. I am presently living in Delhi, India which is my 21st residence. As I tell people, "I have lived everywhere and belong nowhere!" Yet, I have loved every minute of this peripatetic life and the adventure it provides.

An upscale Delhi parking lot
Mr. Expat has made all of this possible, along with my willingness to constantly move, and we cannot imagine staying in one place too long. Thanks to our daughter Helen, I am now getting this blog established and you can join me in the journey. I hope that you enjoy the ride!